The fashion and textile sector, in the context of the ecological transition, is today facing complex challenges that require concrete and collaborative tools. The Su.Re Toolkit (Sustainable Retail Toolkit) was created to address this need: it is a participatory design tool that supports retail companies in defining sustainable and circular strategies, guiding them through a structured process of analysis and ideation. It is conceived as an activity that combines physical materials and a digital interface. It can also be used in a hybrid version on Miro to facilitate participation even remotely, as demonstrated by the test conducted with the Stella McCartney brand.

The transformation towards more sustainable business models in the fashion retail sector often requires a shift from simply selling products to what is known as servitization, that is, the integration of goods and services into a single offering capable of generating greater value. This approach, widely discussed in the literature as synonymous with product–service system, makes it possible to improve the design, use, and maintenance of products, offering a level of service that can be tailored to consumers’ needs. Servitization is a key lever for moving from linear to circular models, placing environmental sustainability at the center but also including cultural change, the evolution of consumer behavior, and the adoption of positive social innovations—three complementary and indispensable dimensions for an integrated approach to sustainability. However, in the complex and contradictory context of the fashion sector, made even more challenging by upcoming European regulations, it is not easy for retail companies to determine the right direction to take. Not all have the internal resources, tools, and skills necessary to transform themselves in an innovative, solid, and growth-oriented way. The challenge is heightened by the abundance of possibilities and scenarios. The Su.Re Toolkit was created precisely to meet these needs, offering a structured opportunity for analysis and self-assessment based on evidence and real cases, enabling brands to evolve with awareness and become key players in the transition towards circularity.

The toolkit is used in co-design workshops involving a facilitation team—composed of designers and researchers from the Retail Experience Lab, which developed the tool as part of the PNRR MUSA – Spoke 5 project—and a company team, made up of representatives from the brand or organization. The facilitators handle the preparation of the activity and the management of the materials, while the company team works to identify services and strategies consistent with its identity and operational capabilities.

The elements of the toolkit include seven boards that guide the process, about 200 cards divided into different types, and four types of tokens used to vote, express preferences, and record reflections. The largest group of cards are the Service Templates: 140 archetypes of sustainable services already present on the market and potentially implementable, organized into thematic categories such as Reduce, Recycle, Collaborative Consumption, Maintenance, Rethink, Transparency & Traceability, Awareness Raising, and Artisanship & Heritage. There are also cards for Brand Characteristics (yellow), Meanings (pink), and categories used to progressively narrow the scope of work.

The workshop unfolds over seven phases.

  1. In step one, Brand Characteristics, the yellow cards are used to identify the brand’s features in terms of positioning, distribution channels, and supply chain control. This analysis provides the first foundation for the funneling technique, allowing only those services compatible with the company’s identity to be considered from the outset.
  2. In step two, dedicated to Brand Experience, the pink cards, Meanings, are used to map customer values and purchasing motivations. Again, the goal is to select only what is consistent with the brand’s expectations and culture.
  3. In step three, the selections made in the first two phases are cross-referenced to identify the most relevant service categories. The group discusses whether the brand has already implemented initiatives in these areas and highlights those deemed interesting or not relevant. For example, categories such as Refurbishing and Digital Organizers, both belonging to the "Maintenance" family, may emerge: the brand might decide to discard Refurbishing and focus solely on Digital Organizers. In that case, only the services included in this category will be considered in the subsequent phases.
  4. step four repeats the same process, but with services belonging to the cultural area, thus expanding the perspective beyond purely environmental aspects.
  5. In step five, based on the findings so far, voting is held to select the six most promising services.
  6. Phase six focuses on a qualitative analysis of these services, highlighting risks and opportunities, which are recorded in the dedicated spaces on the board.
  7. Finally, in step seven, a strategic roadmap is created: the selected services are placed on a matrix, distinguishing those ready for immediate implementation from those requiring investment in training or development. In this phase, the orange cards also come into play, representing social initiatives capable of strengthening the local fabric and promoting distributive justice. The aim is to link each service to potential social impacts, creating an integrated plan that combines environmental objectives with initiatives of value to the community.

During the workshop, participants use annotations and tokens to express opinions, vote for the most interesting options, and note reflections. This system makes the process visual, interactive, and inclusive, fostering dialogue and convergence among participants.

This activity is conceived as a tool for reflection and planning based on evidence and real cases, capable of providing a structured and shared framework from which to start. The real work, however, remains in the hands of the company: only the company can undertake the concrete journey that will make it truly sustainable. The Su.Re Toolkit does not replace internal commitment but makes the necessary steps clearer, more understandable, and more actionable, offering organizations a solid foundation for turning ideas into actions and strategies into results.

Date
06.08.2025
Location
Design Department, Politecnico di Milano